3.0L Frequently Asked Questions

3L services

Engine Powder Coating

Interior/Exterior Powder Coating

Suspension Powder Coating

Misc. Services

Used Parts

Buckshot Motorsports offers several different engine combinations and will work with you to ensure that you get the best HP for your dollar. Read below to see what we can accomplish for you, or email me to customize a set up for you.

Buckshot Motorsports 3L FAQ

Q: Which year 3 liter should I use for my MTX-75 or ATX car?

A: Late '98 the bolt pattern of the Taurus transmission was changed to match that of the MTX-75 transmission, prior years can be modified to fit with some amount of modifications. The other factor that weighs in is the water pump location. The water pump on '01+ 3 liter cars are driven off of the cam shaft same as the 2.5 engines, requiring either using the 2.5 heads on '98-'99 engines, or converting to an electric water pump. Typically the cost of the older block plus the electric water pump will be close to what you can get the '01+ engines for, which means you can get more HP per dollar. Choice is up to you.

Q: Where can I find a 3 liter engine assembly and how much do they usually cost?

A: You can find a used 3L through Buckshot Motorsports, a local salvage yard, an online salvage service, or new through your local Ford dealer. Many times, we can get you a 3L cheaper because of our relationships with several salvage yards in and out of state. If you find one locally for us to prep, remember to consider delivery costs to us before deciding on a deal.

Q: Which heads should I use with my 3 liter swap?

A: Depends on where you want to take the project. Want to add a super charger to the 3 liter? Use the 3 liter factory heads with either an electric water pump or get '01+ heads. Staying naturally aspirated? I feel you should use the 2.5 heads, SVT or non, and add the 3 liter valves with a full port job. The 2.5 heads yield a static compression ratio of 11.2 to 1, with some modification to the combustion chamber that can come down to a more sane 10.5 to 1 or lower. With several hybrid 3 liters, the compression was left at 11.2 to 1 and only a few in warmer climates (or those with oxygenated gas) have had any problems. We also work closely with Jesse King to get porting and polishing work done for our customers, with excellent results.

Q: Which cams should I use with my swap?

A: Which ever heads you use, use those cams or plan on buying brand new cam assemblies or having a bit of a rattle. The cams and the hydraulic lash adjusted followers wear together which means if you disassembled the cams from the heads, you need to mark which lobe the followers are associated with or you may end up with some rattling. Obviously using the hotter grind of the SVT cams will net you more HP and they will fit in the 3 liter heads too with some modification (the water pump drive extension will need to be cut off on a lathe or chop saw for '98-'99 3L heads).

Q: Which parts do I use from the 3 liter and which do I use from the 2.5?

A: Cylinder heads, cams, and water pump aside, you can use the 2.5 upper and lower intake (3 liter lower, which has larger primary and secondary ports than non SVT 2.5 lowers, can be used but requires some secondary linkage modifications). You will need to use the 2.5 front timing cover to maintain proper Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) locations to drive the power steering pump, alternator, etc. You will need to use the 2.5 oil pan, oil pump pick up tube, and windage tray. You will need to use the 2.5 exhaust manifolds (no modification required to use with the 3 liter heads). The knock sensor will need to be used from the 2.5, but the hole in the block must first be drilled and retooled to the 2.5 sensor threads, OR you can modify the wiring harness to work with the plug on the 3 liter knock sensor if you have the 3 liter sensor wiring harness plug.

Q: How much horse power and torque will I get from my swap?

A: Only a few people have dynoed their 3 liter swapped engines that I know of. With a few little bolt on mods, the SVT equipped swaps are running mid-high 180 HP and mid-high 180 TQ at the wheels up to and surpassing 240 HP at the wheels for one known with race cams and headers. This is a range of approximately 230-280 HP at the crank!!! Non SVT cars have not been dynoed to my knowledge, but judging by what my SE Contour can do against known SVT cars that have been dynoed, my best guess for a very basic non SVT car would be high 170 HP and TQ at the wheels on up depending on mods. Straight swaps, expect 160 HP and 160 TQ at the wheels. Quite a gain over even the SVT's stock TQ at the wheels.

Q: What mods will work with my new 3 liter that I may already have or be contemplating purchasing?

A: Basically anything that works with the 2.5 will work even better on the 3 liter. Obviously, the freer flowing, the better for the 3 liter.

Q: Which ECU will work with my new engine and what changes will need to be made for the engine to run properly?

A: The factory ECU will work fine, but will not provide optimum performance. You will need 19 pound per hour injectors minimum, but 24's are recommended. Something to control those new injectors should also be used such as a custom burned computer chip, Apexi S-AFC, Proflow MAF Calibrator, or totally custom programmed ECU. Some say to use the 3 liter ECU and engine wiring harness, but to my knowledge no one has pulled this off as of yet and it seems to be more trouble than it's worth as that ECU is set up to run a totally different vehicle.

Q: What's included with your engine prep services?

A: Disassembly of a salvage or new engine, any minor machining needed, filling of oil return passages if you're using the 2.5 heads, crankshaft bushing will be trimmed off to clear if you have an MTX, knock sensor hole will be drilled and retapped to the 2.5 knock sensor size (if needed), removal of the extra tabs near the alternator mounting area and the front trans mounting tab is trimmed for clearance on SVT's, total reassembly of the short block (including crank, rods, and pistons with your new bearings and rings)

Q: What am I responsible for purchasing with your engine prep service or the installed package?

A: You are responsible for any parts needed to reassembled the motor, including new rings, bearings, and seals. If the engine is new enough for you to be comfortable without changing the bearings and rings, they may be able to be reused depending on condition to save you around $100 or so on parts. With the full installation package, you would need to add on a full gasket set to your budget. Contact your favorite Ford parts guy for details.

If your question was not answered here please check the CEG Forums, or email me. Or, if you're a 3 liter owner and think something needs to be added, changed, or deleted, email me as well.